There are no ordinary steps to recovering from a genocide. None at all. The steps, big and small, meander along an unseen path, until eventually, in hindsight, you can distinguish them as steps. The Kigali Genocide Memorial has steps like this; graves, a resting place for 250,000 and a figurative resting place for the hundreds of thousands of bodies scattered throughout the country in known, and unknown locations. I walked right up to them, confused [...]
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After landing in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, I made it straight for the sea, sand, and splendor of Zanzibar. The cheapest, and most scenic way to get to Zanzibar is by ferry, so my pockets led the way. The mayhem at the port was foreshadowing for future endeavors at bus stations all over Tanzania, but the smooth sailing ferry calmed me down instantaneously. Two to three hours of ocean, the occasional tuft of sand and [...]
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